Life's a Stitch

Another short day to get our feet used to the drill, before we start our first full length day tomorrow. Lots of uphills and corresponding downs, except for the last one that was a longer down into town. It was the kind if descent on loose rock and shale that encourages the loss of hiker's toenails. Ours look good so far.

Sometimes up feels better than down, but not those heart pounding, breath taking, sweat dripping ups that started our day today. There is a fine line between the feel good ascents and the ones that feel meant to kill you. Some day I'll find an app that measures degrees of ascent and figure out that line.

A significant part of the Camino experience is the people. Today we met Diego, 28, from north central Mexico. He, like our three, spent summers as a camp kid (in Minnesota) and then went on to become staff. He's now a chef for a cruise line and will be starting a contract on the Alaska circuit in May. We will meet again in Vancouver.

Our innkeepers have been exceptional. We are trying to stay in reasonably priced hostels and pensions that offer private rooms and shared baths in consideration of C's REM sleep disorder.

Last night was at the Pension Corozon Puro in Bizkeretta, run by two Hungarian former pilgrims, whose goal is to provide pilgrims with a positive experience. 18e each included a home cooked dinner and breakfast. An alburgue (dorm) would have cost the same after paying for meals. Barbara and Istvan were gracious hosts.

Tonight in Zubiri was $32e, no meals, but a beautiful communal living room, kitchen and laundry. The innkeeper is an expressive woman who speaks not a word of English but communicates well with her heart and her hands as well as a constant patter of Spanish and Basque.

I know it's bound to change, but I've been on the Camino for two nights with the luxury of a hot bath on each of them.

The Camino de Santiago pilgrimage has a religious or spiritual history. It's namesake is St. James, whose remains are buried in Santiago, Spain, the end point of the trek. The starting points are from all over Europe and there are seven designated routes across Spain. Some believe the route originating in France, located under the Milky Way, has magical or divine powers.

My original intention, when I first heard of the Camino six years ago after hearing violinist Oliver Schroer's interview on CBC (http://www.oliverschroer.com/about/camino_journal.html) was to do the Portuguese route.

I should warn you. This is a long story.

For some reason the plan migrated to Spain, either from Roncesvalles, just over the French border or from Pamplona, a popular beginning point for Spaniards. I don't know when the plan changed to start from St. John Pied de Port, France, which requires you to take the mountain route up and over the Pyrenees.

Maybe it was the seductive scenery from the movie The Way with Martin Sheen (it's worth a watch to learn more about the pilgrimage). We compromised and agreed to take the valley route through Valcarlos, which has one strenuous day of incline rather than two on the mountain route. Some people actually do the mountain route in a day, but they haven't broken two ankles in the course of a few years.

Last night we stayed in St. Jean, Camino tourist trap par excellence. A beer, which costs 1.90e in Spain was 6e. A diet Coke was 3e and the same can today in Spain was .60e. The couple who ran our pension have strong feelings in support of the mountain route. They include a mountain manifesto on their website. Before you can say "decisions of such nature should be discussed with your spouse," C agrees that we are changing our route and a reservation is in the process of being made at the rest point, a third the way up. Now I can do simple math and that tells me that the second day will be on the hellish side.

Words were exchanged and after attracting the attention of those sitting across from us at the tourist dive restaurant, we agreed to leave the decision up to the Camino. If our hostess was able to reserve a bunk at the inn up the mountain, then it was decided.

Enter divine intervention. Alas, there was no room at the inn and we would hike the valley way, saving 500 meters of elevation. Done.

Not really. In the morning we met another Canadian couple planning on cabbing it over to Roncesvalles to avoid the mountain. The fog up there was so bad you could only see 20 feet in front of you. Camino Magic. Did we want to share the cab with them? You bet. In the end we started 350 meters down the slope for five hours of glorious hiking.

Packing our packs, this is the real thing, our Camino is happening. Weighing each ounce I'm sure everyone has one weakness they can't live without. That is unless you're C who apparently has nothing he can't live without and is willing to let me know it regularly.

I've read what people bring. iPads, books and Kindles seem to be common weight takers. There was an Italian guy who couldn't manage without his tiny espresso pot and the coffee of home. The jury is out on carrying one change of clothing vs two. I'm willing to forego the second set of clothes for 13oz of art supplies. Even a Pacific Crest Trail ultra light through hiking watercolour artist allowed himself a pound of supplies. I will suffer for my art, she says with some trepidation.

I thought about knitting my way across Spain, but it's too darned hot. That project, which is accumulating considerable mileage including crossing the Atlantic three times by air and ship, will have yet another voyage come the fall.

You know how I love to paint old stone structures. Spain is full of them. This is a sample from one day:

Right before we left I participated in a workshop where we painted a 200 year old Swiss farm building. My instructor snapped the photo and it really included the chicken and the cat peering out the windows.

I mentioned it's hot. We expected heat here, near Barcelona, but not in the north especially in the mountains. The common Camino starting point in St. Jean Pied de Port, France, was in the 90's this week. I'm not liking hiking in the heat. For the first time I've developed blisters. Better now as those toes have two days to heal and toughen up prior to our start. Tomorrow is the long trip to St. Jean where the weather forecast is three days of rain and cooler temperatures.

We're off on our adventure with plenty of magic so far along the way. Secure in the knowledge that the house will be well taken care of in our absence, our first stop included the family magic that results from the joy of a new baby.

While in Edmonton, in the middle of the night texts start pouring in: Wake up, wake up, wake up. Daughter Mari, in Calgary, well aware of my dream to witness the northern lights then texts: AURORA BOREALIS!!! Which way is North?! I text back. She directs me and sure enough, the sky was dancing with green and pink. She saved me a lot of money, that girl. We almost flew to Yellowknife, NWT, to see them for my 60th birthday, but that would have eaten into the Camino budget, so it was put on hold for a future dream that's now come true.

If you live in Edmonton, the University has an aurora prediction website where you can register to be notified of activity in the area. Can't link while posting via the phone, so here's the address: www.aurorawatch.ca . Apparently last night was incredible.

So, we left the expanded family in the good hands of Auntie Ellen, who is filling in for me on Mor-Mor duty, while we headed off for the magic of Spain.

First the baby. No longer a bump, second grandson, Parker Jay, arrived three weeks early on August 8th, 7 lbs 10 oz, 20" long. Proud parents and big brother: Elina, Sean and Rye. All's well back at home after a few nights in the NICU.

Blogging bumps – in preparation for the Camino, I'm practicing mobile blogging via email. I imagine this method will result in a few bumps along the way. So here goes…

We're weighing each item we're carrying in our Camino backpacks. Prior to the recent ankle fracture limb care included metatarsal pads, one ankle brace and a just-in-case knee brace. Our updated list has the addition of  gel inserts, an additional ankle brace and Injinji toe sock liners.

Marathon physical therapy sessions and two trips to the podiatrist have me thankful for my post retirement insurance coverage. My sweet young physical therapist laughed out loud when I replied to her question regarding the length of our trek. Not to worry, we have a Plan B if necessary.  This trip is not about winning or losing (except maybe the 5 lbs I gained while cast encumbered), it's about the process of bridging our lives into retirement and being open to whatever happens. 

A good portion of the weight is in the packaging. This reminds me of the year 1984, when we moved to Canada from Omaha, Nebraska. The cost of moving items came out to fifty cents per pound. We weighed everything, including the fridge to determine its move worthiness. Can you imagine what it would cost now?

Regardless of re-emptive plans for foot comfort, we know from all of our research that pain is part of the Camino process.The real inspiration, however, came from the woman at the medical supply store where I bought my braces. She told us that she has done the entire Camino, St. Jean Pied de Port, France to Santiago, Spain, 500 miles, three times – the first at age 65, the second at 67 and the third at 70.

It's coming up quickly, our Camino de Santiago adventure. We're going with total flexibility, to take it as it comes and make decisions as we go. Nothing's set in stone considering the recent setback of the broken ankle. A week post-cast with the help of six cortisone injections and two ankle braces I picked up the training again. Looking into the distance from my daughter's Calgary window I saw this spire:

A quick Google investigation found that it was the new Calgary Mormon Temple, located 11.5 kms away. That was my goal for the trip – a walk from M's house to the temple.  I'm happy to report that three days before the end of our trip we did it:

One thing I noticed is that it was easier to accomplish that kind of distance in new territory. When doing our familiar routes here at home, it seems to feel longer probably due to familiarity and expectations. That's encouraging in terms of Camino walking where everything will be unfamiliar and expectations remain flexible. 

It was when we lived in Omaha we learned that expression "Don't like the weather? Wait a few minutes and it'll change." Now we know they say it in Calgary, too. And rightfully so. After two weeks we witnessed many changes in the sky, particularly from my daughter's front window. 

Sunsets:

And storms:

There were funnel clouds in that one. And this morning we're back in Vancouver where stage 3 drought conditions continue. 

1. I've been released from ankle jail getting the official word that this time the ankle has actually healed. Not like the last time, which has left me with a permanently broken right ankle. Both will require bracing for the Camino. Better safe than sorry, as my Mom would say.

2. My son's movie, a documentary about a chapter in our family's history, is being released (on DVD or pay per view) North America-wide on July 21st. Pre-orders for Taking My Parents to Burning Man are being accepted on iTunes. Aside from the basic premise of the movie, the post filming experience has been a journey in itself: many awards, positive reviews, and interesting discussions. It has done wonders for my discomfort with public speaking. It's funny to read reviews and people's take on things. The last one, in Vancouver's Georgia Straight, described daughter Mari as sagacious, me as easy going, and Chuck simply as white haired. 

Be forewarned, it's not everybody's cup of tea.  The movie does border at times on the risque side. It really shouldn't come as a shock, it's about the Burning Man festival. The rating process is not yet complete, but it is not PG. There is one F word said in frustration and some glimpses of bare bottoms and breasts. There are people in the background smoking joints and drinking alcohol. I've seen worse on prime time.

There are now two versions of the trailer, one more tame than the original.  To date the film is rated 4.8 out of 5 on IMDB and 8.9 out of 10 on Rotten Tomatoes.

If you are so inclined, give it a watch. You'll laugh, maybe cry, and you'll definitely have opportunities to shake your head in disbelief. And for you Vancouverites, it will be playing at the Rio this Sunday, Monday and Tuesday. Have fun!