Life's a Stitch

A short day, only 3.25 hours of walking, however, we were met by the plague of the Meseta, moscas. Flies. Well organized contingents, a strategy of three flies to one human, buzzing directly in front of your eyes and dive bombing your face and hair nonstop for two hours. Periodically one would land on the ground a few feet in front of you awaiting the perfect opportunity to strike again. Using our hats as makeshift windshield wipers, we were called wimps by an Australian priest, who explained to us what flies were really like.

We'd heard of the vicious Camino dogs, how hiking poles are a good defensive strategy, but hadn't encountered any. Until today. See that fuzzy sweet terrier? He's a wolf in dog's clothing.

Apparently he didn't like having his picture taken, turning into a canine Mr. Hyde and charging at me, with teeth bared accompanied by an impressive growl.

We walked through villages with old buildings constructed of straw and clay. No huffing and puffing have blown these places down.

Lunch was an interesting discussion with the Aussie priest and others giving a strong argument that gave more understanding regarding the wealth and faults of the Catholic Church and the relationship to poverty and social impact. They introduced points we hadn't considered.

We ended the day at Casa el Cura, owned and run by a husband and wife, he's Cuban and she's Spanish. Another example of a family wanting to support pilgrims. They were part host, chef and comedy act. Once again Chuck was recognized for his resemblance to Hemmingway.

We had elected to take the scenic route today. What we didn't know is that the town where we ended had no bus to Leon, which meant cabbing to the alternative route to catch a train into Leon for our half Camino rest day. But look what we would have missed had we changed our route.

Guest blog today by Chuck while Li gives her wrist and thumbs a rest. My post is likely to be a few broad strokes and random thoughts rather than a daily account.

Prior to starting the Camino I heard people referring to the movement from physical to mental to spiritual. In the early stages I was definitely absorbed in the physical but not necessarily my own physical state. It was the physical surroundings that kept me engaged. The change from pastoral mountain scenes to forests, to olive groves and vineyards, to farmland kept my interest as you can well imagine from Li's photos. I have to admit that it felt like a vacation. . . just with a lot of walking.

Taking the journey on foot gives a person ample time to note the changes in culture, language, food and architecture as we move across northern Spain.

As we move into the Meseta, the scenery is not as engaging as evidenced by the photo.

Even the most superficial Pilgrim's thoughts would have to turn inward to deal with the boredom. How boring you ask? It was soooo boring that at one point Li said she was going to stop for a pee, even though she didn't have to go, just to break up the monotony.

Despite the visits to numerous cathedrals I think the spiritual is yet to come. The cathedrals are absolutely stunning in their art and architecture but I find my thoughts hung up on the vast amounts of money required for their construction. Were these magnificent structures of the medieval era built to the glory of God or to further the power, ego or political influence of the kings, bishops and wealthy who supported their construction. What is their modern-day equivalent? Could it be the "Trump" towers of today built to further financial or political power?

The Museum of Evolution in Burgos was another experience that sparked a great deal of mental churning. To walk over the same ground and see artifacts of our hominid ancestors of nearly a million years ago was mind blowing. They were already shaping what would become humanity with their ability to work together, the crafting of tools and their burial rituals. How often have our tribes come together and then be torn apart? Why are the clashes inevitable and seemingly endless? Why can't we just get along?

On the Camino we have met people from 28 countries. So far I have not witnessed one clash and that even includes the divergent walkers and bikers!

Life on the Camino is not suffering and sacrifice. I am reminded again and again of how much we have to be thankful for. The abundance of good food and wine is such that the cruise home will be an opportunity for me to cut back.

Li will be back tomorrow so for now . . . Buen Camino

Chuck

Due to the spacing of cities and the timing of our two day stay in Leon this weekend, we've chosen more reasonable days lengthwise, then will pick up the pace next Monday.

Today was the day I was waiting for, though I didn't know it. Prior to walking the Camino, I found interesting related photos online that I used as subjects for drawing and painting. There were a couple that I really wanted to see in person, but lacked information as to the location. Like the end of a treasure hunt, I found one today. The Bodegas of Moratinos look like a series of hobbit houses built into the hillside.

These date back 500 years and were used for winemaking, food storage and a way to keep children warm and occupied during the winter months. Instead of being instructed to go out and play, the kids were told to dig a big hole in the clay hill, which would eventually become the family's bodega.

If you look closely you'll see modern additions such as antennae and updated chimneys. My guess is these now serve as man caves.

We had our picture taken as we left the state of Palencia. I'm holding a little bouquet C made for me. It was his way of passing the time on the Meseta and a good use for duct tape. Sweet man.

Tonight we checked in to our room in a casa rurale in the town of Sahagun. We were surprised to learn that we would be the only people in this three bedroom, two bath apartment of at least 1600 square feet. I could happily live in it for retirement. Lest this Camino turn into a Glamino* the jacuzzi tub was not in working order.

We used this opportunity to do a badly needed load of laundry and for a shot at cooking our own dinner. Success!

*Glamino – a Camino experience organized by businesses that transport Pilgrims from section to section, including 3-4 star hotel accommodation and gourmet picnic lunches on the Way. A reminder: everyone has their own Camino.

I should give some credit here. I'm not able to post to the blog due to Apple issues, without the help of my daughter in Edmonton, who is currently on maternity leave. Thank you Elina.

Today we experienced some Camino synchronicity family-wise. My mother-in-law's name was Naomi. Starting this morning we started noticing rocks and signs signed by someone with the same name. It was like C's mom was there in spirit. Then others appeared.

Toward the end of today's trek there was my sister's name spelled out in rocks.

We arrived at Alburgue la Morena, established in honour of the owner's grandmother, who bore a coincidental resemblance to my mother. This is a caricature, but there is a portrait that's even closer:

This old hacienda has a nice feel, each room named for a family member.

The cost was 15e per person with shared bath and another wonderful meal for 10e each. Another example of locals catering to pilgrims.

This is the dreaded Meseta day that everyone talks about. The first 17k has nothing in the way of food or services. There seemed to be a trail of gross toilet paper behind every occasional clump of trees. It wasn't the barren Meseta that we expected, but miles of farmland along a very straight and flat dirt road.

We saw this family strolling along and had the opportunity to meet them later. Mom and dad, from Poland, are walking with their nine month old son.

Chuck thought they were crazy until we had a chance to talk with them. Everyone has their own Camino.

Last night we met two German cyclists in their 70's. The one who spoke English approached Chuck and complimented him on his beard, which he hasn't trimmed since retiring on June 1. The man has dubbed him Hemmingway, who spent lots of time in towns on the Camino. He's got something there.

Tomorrow I'll post part 2, but for now here is our beautiful Meseta sunset:

A day of superlatives, we woke up from the best night's sleep on the Camino and walked for a beautiful day mostly on an alternative path that took us through farm country then along a river with birdsong in one ear and church bells in the other. This is the Meseta that is described as so bland?

We walked along a river on a path that looked like scenes from a watercolour landscape instruction book.

Autumn Crocus were poking through the hard earth.

Arrived at our hostel at Carrion de Los Condes for the most unique room of our trek.

Aside from the quirky decorating, the place was fabulous. The dining room offered the best peregrino meal ever. Ordering lamb stew, I expected watery broth with tender but fatty chunks of meat. Instead I was presented with lamb shank in mushroom sauce. I was afraid to accept it thinking there had been a mistake.

For dessert we were given several choices and we ordered the chocolate mousse. The server told us NO! in firm Spanish. She presented us with two specialities de la casa, knowing the mousse was prepackaged, and ordered us to share both. They were a rice pudding and a custard with cinnamon that tasted like they were from my grandmother's kitchen.

The entire dinner with a decent bottle of wine came to 22e for the two of us. This family run hostel made it a point to spoil pilgrims.

Tomorrow is a long stretch with no services for the first 17k. Hasta manana.

About two thirds into our Meseta section for the day we stopped into an oasis of an alburgue in the afternoon to kill some pain.

The last section was along the Canal de Castilla, 129 miles long, built in the 1800's for grain transport, but with the advent of rail lines, is now used for irrigation.

We saw animals for the first time in days and played Mari's cow game with sheep. Hey Sheep! Looks like two turned to look at us. Maybe I should have called to them in Spanish.

We arrived in Fromista and found our hostel with extremely comfy beds and called it an early night.

Last night at dinner in Castrojeriz we saw what at first we believed to be a bumble bee, but it turned out it was a tiny hummingbird with bee like colouring. It was too difficult to get a good photo. Then C was feeling creative:

Started out this morning tripping over a nail sticking out of a wooden bridge. I know I've had my share of fall injuries, but this one came right out of the blue. I landed on my left hand and knee with a following forward head bump. The sound of head meeting ground is never good. Don't worry, you nurses following the blog, there were absolutely no symptoms of concussion. I think my new sweatband helped plus whatever divine intervention is provided by the Camino and the immediate administration of arnica cream by a trail angel.

The continued painful wrist prompted a visit to a pilgrim's clinic. The closest X-ray was 50k away, so they immobilized it and if it still hurts in Leon, a major city four days forward, I can have an X-ray there.

Makes you realize how quickly things can change in a split second. I am thankful that my Camino can continue.

We covered 25k (15 miles), climbing up and over onto the Meseta.

People report how tedious this section is, but living so many years in Nebraska has instilled in me an appreciation for the prairies.

Part 2 tomorrow.

We spent last night in a hostel in the village of Isar, a few kilometres off the trail, as Hornillos was totally booked. The hostel arranged for pick up and drop off to the Camino at no charge.

I'm finding while walking I'm afflicted with musical ear worms. Waiting for our ride, a Scottsman shared his disappointment in only seeing two wild animals to date. A squirrel and… No don't say it, I thought. Oh no here it comes, that F word that bores from my ear into my head… a fox. What Does a The Fox Say… Ring, ring, ring, ring, ring a ringading.

Today we covered 20.2k (12.6 miles) in 5.75 hours including time to explore ruins and churches. The first half was eerily shrouded in fog.

Big blue eyes, pointy nose, chasing mice and digging holes…

It started lifting as we approached Hontanas, where we stopped for a break.

We passed an interesting little hermitage dedicated to St. Bridget of Sweden, who did the Camino with her husband in 1342. It took them three years for a round trip pilgrimage from Sweden.

During the second half of our walk today the Camino passed right through the 14th century ruins of the Convent of San Anton.

What does the fox say?

Blogless Marsha once told me the cure for a ear worm is to listen to the song all the way through. As soon as I finish this post I'm off to YouTube.

Castrojeriz looked intriguing in the distance. C and I agreed to pass on hiking to the castle ruins far above the town.

Prior to checking in to our room we toured the Ex-Colegiata de Santa Maria del Monzano.

They had a display of 16th century works of art right out in the open, no barriers or protection from people.

Tomorrow is going to be a long one, hopefully about 27k. It's farther than we expected as we are still 1.5k from the centre of town.

We agree that if feels like we're getting stronger. Today's 21k (13 miles) felt like a normal day, the beautiful weather helping.

Breakfast in Burgos was at Cafe Mayor where a slice of Spanish tortilla (similar to frittata, but flipped in the pan rather than baked), a piece of baguette and an espresso cost 2e.

We walked through the university where we saw this St. James the Pilgrim statue.

On we went into the countryside where we caught a pilgrim snoozing by a stream.

The terrain is starting to turn into Spain's Meseta, the high plains of harvested fields that will go on for days.

They say when you enter the Meseta your thoughts turn inward. I guess you're not as distracted by the scenery.

As it got later and warmer C appreciated my mantra, "ice cream, ice cream, ice cream."