Life's a Stitch

September 30: 22.6k

Managed to leave a half hour earlier at 8:30 a.m. It was a mizzly morning, heavier than mist, not quite drizzle, and the temperature significantly lower than in previous days. It eventually burned off.

We split our usual protein bar on the trail and stopped for second breakfast, this time not until after 12k. 

The first section was mostly farmland.

 

Then lots of Galician inclines and downhills, but they are becoming easier. There were spots, although only at 420 meters, that felt like hiking in much higher mountains. The higher we went, the rockier it got. 

 

We arrived at the point where the path split in two. We had already made our decision. Although most pilgrims go to Fisterre, which translates to the end of the earth, the real Western most point in Spain's Camino is Muxia, also the supposed location where the Virgin Mary travelled by stone boat to encourage St. James' (Santiago's) preaching.

Last year we visited Fisterre by bus, so this time we decided to walk to Muxia, a difference of 2k. For today, though, our stop is at Dumbria. 

 Just short of town, the stones lining the sides of the path looked like living walls. 

 

And this was a "living" car, not that old, but covered and lined with ivy and moss.

 

We stayed at Meson do Argentino, a plain restaurant/bar with rooms for rent and a little grocery and small appliance store. This was the most interesting meal of our Camino experiences.

On the Camino the term "menu" refers to a pilgrim menu or the restaurant's three course menu of the day, usually in the vicinity of 10e including wine. If you want to order from the regular menu, you ask in Spainsh for the carta. 

 Let me back up. We went to the wee grocery store to buy water and fruit for tomorrow's walk. Lo and behold, C discovered something that he couldn't resist. On the bottom shelf of their wine selection was a substantial collection of dusty cobwebby wines in the 22-32 year old range. C was in his element. He picked one out for dinner and one to carry along to our next stop. If we lived closer he would have cleaned out the entire shelf.

 

We went to dinner and asked for the carta, but the owner told us "No!" The choices for the day were steak or fish. Period. And with our wine choice she insisted we order steak, a good choice. We thought we had ordered a steak and large salad to share. She came out with two huge prime rib steaks. It was delicious, but way beyond our ability to finish and might I add, considerably above our Camino budget. But it was a meal to remember and the 25 year old tempranillo reserva was worth it as an exception to our routine.