Life's a Stitch

Sept 12th – Klosterneuberg to Vienna 14.76 (8.76 miles)

It was time to ride the bikes to our final destination. This was definitely urban cycling, some underneath a major roadway. Vienna, is a pristine city on the surface, but down by the river it is a blanket of graffiti, some quite beautiful.

Crazy enough, we hit the only stretch of unpaved slippery gravel of the trip. Then we walked our bikes for the last few blocks as there was no bike lane. We were ready to end this part of our adventure.

 

The bike shop was close by and run by a man, coincidentally also an artist, who used to live in Vancouver. We finished the trip with 388k (232 miles) on the odometer. The average wasn't too bad, 55.42k (33.25miles) per day, but we had several days with up to twice the distance averaged with the final short days.

After an interesting conversation we went to his recommended restaurant for a celebratory wine and cheese lunch, followed by one full route on the hop on hop off bus. We passed a church with a statue of St. James, the patron saint of the Camino de Santiago, the one with the scallop shell on his hat. Uh-oh are we being called back to being pilgrims?

 

We took the train back to Klosterneuberg and chatted with a local couple. They asked if we were camping and were surprised when I said we were staying in a hotel. We must have looked as if we spent the last eight days outdoors. I guess we did.

 

We walked to dinner at a nearby sports complex and shared a HUGE amazing rib meal. Meanwhile mosquitoes made a meal of us. 

 

Afterthoughts:

C and I have walked long distances three times on the Camino de Santiago and both agree we prefer it to cycling. When you walk you can get into a meditative rhythm, soak in the scenery or chat with another pilgrim. On a bike you have to concentrate on your riding and safety 100% of the time. The path is narrow and heavily travelled. You have to be careful to hug your side as local riders don’t have bells and I never heard anyone call out “on your left” as we do here. 

 

The trip was good but painful. I think I would bring my own bike seat next time, one that I’m used to. Even with added seat pads, the issue was the pressure not the softness. I felt like I birthed a ten pound baby. 

 

We lucked out with the weather although we carried rain gear. Thank goodness we didn’t have to use it.

 

It was a very expensive trip between the bike rentals, shipping of two suitcases to our ultimate destination and the high cost of accommodation and meals in Europe. For us, travelwise, there are more efficient ways to spend money for a good experience. We were asked recently, with all our travels, how we decide on destinations. The honest answer was we look for the deals. It has to be an exceptional value.

 

Bottom line: a bike ride along the Danube – not as romantic as it sounds. 

What’s next? A full day and a night in Vienna, then a flight to Southampton, England, where we will start a 16 night Northern European cruise, booked via a last minute sale. We had four European spots on our list for future travel, but airfares are so high we managed to accomplish three on this trip: visiting friends, biking down the Danube and a cruise that included the British Isles. We still have a longterm European goal to achieve – a trek down the Haervegen trail in Denmark and related visits in the Copenhagen area. 

Sept 11th – Zwentendorf to Klosterneuberg 44.83 (26.89 miles)

We said goodbye to our hosts, packed up our bikes and we headed off along the river, getting closer to the big city of Vienna.

Our cycling days are getting shorter, but the biking is a bit more complicated as we get closer to more populated areas. Urban cycling means traffic and convoluted city bike routes. We spent quite a bit of time today consulting the GPS.

It was Monday and many restaurants were closed, so we were happy to see one riverside patio with customers.  They were serving their limited Monday menu: cake, grilled cheese sandwiches or hotdogs. C indulged in a generously sized piece of poppy seed cake. It’s a taste I haven’t acquired. We were visited by one of the Danube's "ugly ducklings," a y0ung swan.

We made the decision to stay two nights in the last town before Vienna, Klosterneuberg, as there was an event in Vienna that had driven up hotel prices. Tomorrow we’ll ride our bikes into the city and turn them in at the rental place that will transport them back to Passau, and we’ll take the train back to our comfortably air conditioned hotel with an "interesting" view of the patio of the apartment next door. I wondered how these people felt about having dinner on their balcony with new hotel neighbours every night or two.

Tomorrow is the big day, the end of the bike portion of our trip. I admit I'm not as disappointed about this as I was on the last nights of our walks on the Camino.

Right in time for holiday shopping, Chuck and I are participating in a ten person art show November 4&5. Hope to see you there. I'll be featuring smaller framed original paintings, cards, matted prints and more. Chuck will exhibit wall hangings made from wood, metal, epoxy and items found on the beach.

And I received the 2024 Multifath Calendars that feature my sunflower painting representing the month of August. Published by the Multifaith Action Committee, it has a circulaion of 30,000 throughout North America. This year's theme is "reclaiming our happiness."

I have two pet portrait commissions so far for the holiday season and have room for one or two more. If you're interested let me know.  Available in two styles, colourful and realistic.

 

September 10 – Krems on Der Doneau to Zwentendorf 27.84k (16.7 miles)

It was a quick and easy ride along the Danube to Zventendorf. With so little left in the trip we finally were able to adjust the handlebars perfectly. The Danube cycle path, catering to cyclists, has many places providing bike garages with charging facilities for e-bikes. We also passed a couple of tool stations.

As we arrived well prior to check in we went geocaching at the gate of the Romanian Cemetery for prisoners of war. One of the reasons I like geocaching, it brings you to interesting historical points of interest that you might not have taken the time to visit.

Lunch was next. I ordered the traditional “pancake” soup, a rich beefy bone type broth with strips of thin crepes. Comfort food.

Arriving at our pension, we were delighted to see a pool and took full advantage of it. The feeling of lightness in the water compensated for that heavy feeling on the bike.

Our room 

We researched local restaurants and decided on one a couple of kilometres away. We were surprised it was just a snack shack on the bank of a swimming lake, with few menu choices, but a woman from Thailand made delicious food. 

Sept 8th and 9th (rest day) Pochlar to Krems on der Doneau 65.58k (39.34 miles)

I had a rough night from something I ate, but there is no choice other than to pedal on. I wouldn’t have chosen anything else, not wanting to miss a thing. This was reminiscent of a Camino day under similar circumstances. 

Thinking there might be a more direct route from the village to the cycle path we started off. We stopped at one dead end and decided to press on. C took off not noticing I had bike troubles and by the time I had things straightened out he was long gone. I knew we needed to cross a major bridge, the problem was finding the access point. I followed a confident looking cyclist who knew a short cut along a first path. Back on the main route I crossed the bridge, and stopped in the shade underneath to check my email. Sure enough there was one from C and we arranged a meeting point. Two important lessons here: buy two SIM cards for emergency purposes and a rear view mirror.

We were rewarded by the most beautiful part of the trip: vineyards, castles, farms and views of the river cruise ships passing by. 

We reached our destination for two nights, a farm stay at the home of a fifth generation vintner for a rest day, whose wife greeted us with a glass of their white wine.

She explained that sadly they are the fifth and last generation to run the winery, their grown children preferring traditional jobs in larger cities. It was the same story we heard from farmers on the Camino.

We were so tired we settled for a dinner of backpack food: boiled eggs, cheese, bread, an apple and a bottle of wine. 

Well deserved rest day: we started with breakfast that included red and white grape juice from the vineyard. What a treat. I generally prefer red wine, but in the case of the juice, the white was better.

Laundry followed as we were only carrying two panniers and a medium backpack for eight days on the trail. There is something satisfying about hanging laundry on a hot breezy European day. 

It was just what a rest day should be. We hung out in the garden then walked to locate the restaurant where we planned dinner, stopping in the town’s tiny grocery for lunch items.

Dinner was on the patio of the restaurant. We ordered fish, but no matter how nice the place, a side order of veggies usually meant the frozen kind. There were a few other lost in translation menu items along the way. Roasted chanterelles and potatoes = scrambled eggs with various mushrooms, boiled parsley butter potatoes on the side. Baked emmenthal cheese = deep fried breaded cheese like mozzarella sticks, served with tarter sauce.

We watched the sunset over the Danube with a glass of decent Austrian red wine. 

 

Sept 7th  Saxen To Pochlar 66.46k (39.87 miles)

We set out after a wonderful included breakfast. We weren’t sure where to turn off but met an English speaking couple who said they were headed toward the river, so we followed them. They took back roads, much better than the stint on the highway last evening. 

We went through very hilly farm country in high winds, with a castle and mountains in the background. We eventually ended up in Grien, took a couple minutes to decide our route and followed where the couple had gone – onto the left bank trail. 

We stopped after 7k in the bike lane of a busy highway with no separation other than a yellow line, having been passed by oil trucks, semis and a loaded logging truck. 

We met two nice women facing the same decision: continue for 13.9 k more on that road or return 7k back to town and take the bike ferry to the calmer path. They had a great attitude saying we all survived and it was time to be happy with our choices. We took each others photos then chose the path of least resistance and turned around lol. They continued on. The bike lane was much better on that side of the highway. 

As we approached the bike ferry it had just shoved off, but came back for us and we were rewarded with quiet road and bike trails with scenic villages across the ricer, until we reached our stopping point in Pochlar. We stayed across from the train station, in the older Hotel-Restaurant Moser Pochlarn, where we had a quiet room overlooking neighbourhood gardens. 

Sept 6th Linz to Saxen 59.1k (35.5 miles)

Another bad night of sleep, this time due to late night Diet Coke. I think the caffeine levels might be higher here. No breakfast included with our room so it was tea kettle eggs on bread w/mayo. 

 

Our first stop was a bike shop to buy padded seat covers. The rental bikes came with terribly uncomfortable seats and if I had thought about it, I would have brought my own. We also got some advice re handlebar adjustments.

 

There are times you’ll need to cross the river to get to your accommodation or to avoid riding along a busy road. Today’s bike ferry ride was a happy accident. We had crossed over a dam and rode through beautiful farmland, but must have missed a sign and ended up at a ferry crossing. We intended to return to that side by bridge today anyway so we paid the 5e and took the boat.

 

A short distance later we stopped at another campground for lunch and enjoyed the beautiful view.

 

The afternoon took us through forest and farm fields, it was my favourite day so far. Then we reached the turnoff for our hotel and had 1.9k through a small village, half of that on a real highway without a bike path, not my preference, but I survived.

 

We had dinner at the inn we chose and you can tell we were thirsty. We discovered a rule in Austria after we had been paying high amounts for bottled water. They have to serve you a free glass of water with each glass of wine to help people avoid dehydration from alcohol. Some places bring it automatically. And Germany has a law that there has to be a drink on the menu less expensive than beer so people aren’t drinking beer because it’s the cheapest drink available.

Our pension, the Kulturzentrum  Sturmmuhle, overlooked a creek with a little waterfall. That sound and the extremely comfortable bed lead to the best night’s sleep.

 

 

Sept 5th Inzell to Linz 63k (38 miles)

It was a bad night with elbow pain from an overextended arm, which reinforced the need for further bike adjustments.

The pension included a typical Austrian breakfast buffet with eggs, ham, salami, cheeses, breads, jams, cereal, yogurt, muesli, coffee and juice. I quickly learned that decaf isn’t a thing here and was glad to be carrying along a jar of instant.

The first 2/3 of the ride was along a quiet paved path.

We passed another beautiful campground along the Danube the sites by the river on manicured lawns.  There were sites for campers or you could rent a camping barrel to sleep in. When we camp at home, we’ve met many German and Austrian families who fly over and rent RV’s. We’re wondering if they are disappointed with Canadian camping standards compared to what they are used to at home.

We entered the flat area along the Danube with a very strong headwind, which slows us down and takes more energy.

We then headed into the urban area of Linz where the bike trail was barely separated from a busy highway for awhile, but then turned into a city park path almost all the way to our hotel. There was a music festival in town so rooms rates were high. This was the most expensive room of the bike trip at a hotel chain called “Harry’s Home.”

A grocery store next to the hotel was a good choice for dinner in the room. We had lox on bread, peaches, dark chocolate, wine and Diet Coke. 

We decided to book our accommodation ahead as leaving it to chance was nerve wracking. The rest of the evening was spent on researching and reserving places to stay.

Sept 4th Passau to Inzell 46k (28 miles)

We said goodbye to our friends. It was wonderful being together again and we appreciate that Anne, Janett and Emma drove seven hours from Berlin to meet us. 

Anne drove us to the bike rental, located across the street from Deutsche Post, where we shipped our luggage to Austria, not without hassle. Turns out the quote we received was too low and they only take cash. 

We picked up our bikes at Rent-A-Bike, Passau. We opted for e-bikes, which are different from the ones we have at home. They were heavier, had a narrower range of pedal assist and no throttle, something I use at home if I have to walk the bike up a hill.  I was surprised that our bikes were the same size, but we were told it was appropriate for my height. My toes barely touched the ground so we made every possible adjustment. We had read that the bikes were Dutch style for comfortable “sit up and beg” positioning. Not so. The whole fit required getting used to and many adjustments beyond the shop’s recommendation.

All packed up and ready to go:

It was a beautiful day and a short ride out of Passau:

and we quickly crossed the Austrian border through rolling forested hills and farmland, and quaint villages across the river. 

We passed an artist’s dream, one of the Farber Castell factories, but didn’t stop.

Without a reservation, we were lucky in finding accommodation at Pension Zum Heilogan Nikolaus, which included a nicely manicured Dunube-side campground. 

The rooms were comfortable.

Even the birds had decent accommodation.

Dinner was reasonable and delicious: pumpkin ginger soup and a shared schnitzel. It was a family operation, a teen boy serving and 9 yr old girl delivering beer to tables.

After dinner we had a quiet evening. Tomorrow’s route will be longer.

After hotel room breakfast, including the famous tea kettle eggs, the five of us spent the day touring Passau, first walking to the old town. Emma was excited to shop for ice cream and souvenirs. That girl moves quickly, but she was quite visable wearing her red Canada jersey that we brought her from home.

After touring the St. Stephen's Cathedral again, we found it was well worth a second look.

We took a Danube sightseeing cruise followed by lunch in a genuine Bavarian beer garden – Das Wirtshaus und Biergarten, if you make it to Passau, you must eat here.

I had a huge haxen (smoked and fried pork hock), with Reibeknödel (delicious potato dumpling), sauerkraut, and beer sauce, plenty for everyone to try. Looking back, it was the best meal of our Passau to Vienna trip.

Tired from a long day, we bussed back to the hotel, and had a light snack for dinner in their family sized room, followed by several rounds of Left, Center, Right. Tomorrow begins the great bike adventure, Passau to Vienna, for eight days.