Life's a Stitch

21k today in perfect weather. We didn't stop for a break until 15, which at times is our end destination.

Leaving Leon we passed a little neighbourhood of bodegas. They appear inhabited. Can this be a unique answer to the need for affordable housing? The Spanish version of a laneway house?

Tonight we're at the Alburgue St. Anthony de Padua in a private room. Mari would dub it as adequate. 30e with three toilets and two showers for eight rooms. A good alternative to the communal room with 50 beds!

The dining room serves only vegetarian fare, so it was salad, gazpacho and veggie paella for dinner, and chocolate crepes for dessert, a delicious and satisfying pilgrim meal for 9e. The chef cooking for the 7:00 dinner will be in the kitchen again by 6:00a.m. to prepare breakfast. Reminds me of camp cooking days.

They have a wonderful garden for relaxing and watching pilgrims arriving after a long day.

Our favourite saint, particularly as we get older is the namesake of this alburgue, St. Anthony de Padua, the patron saint of lost items. Even Chuck, the self described Catholic-in-law, owes a debt of gratitude to St. Anthony. On this trek, for example, Chuck was sure he had lost a hearing aid on the path. St. Anthony came through for him and the missing aid was recovered in the hostel room. I pointed out a collection box at the basilica in Leon dedicated to St. Anthony, where Chuck happily made a contribution.

Last night we took a walk and the streets were packed, a typical Saturday night in Leon, reminiscent of Vancouver during the 2010 Olympics.

We're making Sunday a true day of rest ending with the evening pilgrim's mass and blessing. As we're intending to be off our feet for most of the day I though it would be a good time to write about life in Spain.

Pillows: I'm familiar with North American pillows and the square ones used in other parts of Europe, but in Spain, the pillow fills the entire width of the bed and the case is open on both ends. So this means if you are in a room with twin beds, there are two pillows. If you have booked a 'matrimonio' room, it means one bed and one loooong pillow that requires cooperation with your partner. Another example of it not being as romantic as it sounds.

Supermarkets: this one was about 10×10, the only show in town, and the fine print on the sign indeed dubs itself a supermarket. Chips, as advertised, were half the stock.

Of course there are larger ones, like we are accustomed to. When we visit WA we shop at a store where you can pick up a specially made black fabric bag to tote home six bottles of wine, which we've been known to do. In fact we've accumulated quite a collection of those bags and have repurposed them as tool or shoe holders.

Here in Spain they have bags made out of the same black fabric to tote home your whole cured leg of pig. They are delicious but take up a lot of counter space, as they need no refrigeration. Remember those acorns I posted about recently? The piece de resistance in cured pig leg comes from acorn fed pigs.

Lost in translation: some things foster unfortunate associations.

And speaking of shopping, in the smaller stores, the clerk picks the fruit and veggies for you. There are often signs of reminder "No tocar las fruitas!" In a larger grocery store you may pick your produce, but you must wear plastic gloves. And don't forget to weigh and tag your purchases prior to heading to the checkout. Seems like an efficient system to me.

I think in Spain there must have been funding opportunities for two things. The first is metal sculpture. Every town has at least one example, many of pilgrims over the ages. The second is for upgrades to bathrooms at the various forms of lodging. Even most of the oldest hostels have up-to-date facilities.

Evening update: the pilgrim benediction was truly a moving moment for both of us. We feel more than blessed as we continue our pilgrimage to Santiago tomorrow, leaving the big city behind.

This morning we took a train, flying past the end of the Meseta and the walk along a major highway, into the Spanish city of Leon for a much needed halftime break.

I didn't realize how tired we were. Not one for napping I could easily spend a day resting in Leon. And C is finding the bustle of the city difficult and is happy to snooze a day away. Plus the bursitis is flaring in my left foot, so a day of icing and voltarin and arnica rubs couldn't hurt.

I bought myself a pair of rainpants to avoid another opportunity for soaken misery. This way we'll be assured of good weather for the second half. C was not enthused with my purchase. Was it the weight? Heck, we've consumed the equivalent in meds being halfway through our trek.

Leon was having its Medieval festival. The street food was delicious, but expensive.

We toured the cathedral and the 11th century basilica where we will attend a pilgrim's mass tomorrow. The 13th century gothic cathedral marked a change in European architecture, where instead of a dark closed in atmosphere light was encouraged, in this case through 1800 square meters of stained glass. Before this new design, the large cathedrals needed the structure of solid walls to support their height.

We were also on time for the Saturday morning market. I have never seen a head of greens this beautiful.

So tonight we're having salad, go figure, and pizza.

A short day, only 3.25 hours of walking, however, we were met by the plague of the Meseta, moscas. Flies. Well organized contingents, a strategy of three flies to one human, buzzing directly in front of your eyes and dive bombing your face and hair nonstop for two hours. Periodically one would land on the ground a few feet in front of you awaiting the perfect opportunity to strike again. Using our hats as makeshift windshield wipers, we were called wimps by an Australian priest, who explained to us what flies were really like.

We'd heard of the vicious Camino dogs, how hiking poles are a good defensive strategy, but hadn't encountered any. Until today. See that fuzzy sweet terrier? He's a wolf in dog's clothing.

Apparently he didn't like having his picture taken, turning into a canine Mr. Hyde and charging at me, with teeth bared accompanied by an impressive growl.

We walked through villages with old buildings constructed of straw and clay. No huffing and puffing have blown these places down.

Lunch was an interesting discussion with the Aussie priest and others giving a strong argument that gave more understanding regarding the wealth and faults of the Catholic Church and the relationship to poverty and social impact. They introduced points we hadn't considered.

We ended the day at Casa el Cura, owned and run by a husband and wife, he's Cuban and she's Spanish. Another example of a family wanting to support pilgrims. They were part host, chef and comedy act. Once again Chuck was recognized for his resemblance to Hemmingway.

We had elected to take the scenic route today. What we didn't know is that the town where we ended had no bus to Leon, which meant cabbing to the alternative route to catch a train into Leon for our half Camino rest day. But look what we would have missed had we changed our route.

Guest blog today by Chuck while Li gives her wrist and thumbs a rest. My post is likely to be a few broad strokes and random thoughts rather than a daily account.

Prior to starting the Camino I heard people referring to the movement from physical to mental to spiritual. In the early stages I was definitely absorbed in the physical but not necessarily my own physical state. It was the physical surroundings that kept me engaged. The change from pastoral mountain scenes to forests, to olive groves and vineyards, to farmland kept my interest as you can well imagine from Li's photos. I have to admit that it felt like a vacation. . . just with a lot of walking.

Taking the journey on foot gives a person ample time to note the changes in culture, language, food and architecture as we move across northern Spain.

As we move into the Meseta, the scenery is not as engaging as evidenced by the photo.

Even the most superficial Pilgrim's thoughts would have to turn inward to deal with the boredom. How boring you ask? It was soooo boring that at one point Li said she was going to stop for a pee, even though she didn't have to go, just to break up the monotony.

Despite the visits to numerous cathedrals I think the spiritual is yet to come. The cathedrals are absolutely stunning in their art and architecture but I find my thoughts hung up on the vast amounts of money required for their construction. Were these magnificent structures of the medieval era built to the glory of God or to further the power, ego or political influence of the kings, bishops and wealthy who supported their construction. What is their modern-day equivalent? Could it be the "Trump" towers of today built to further financial or political power?

The Museum of Evolution in Burgos was another experience that sparked a great deal of mental churning. To walk over the same ground and see artifacts of our hominid ancestors of nearly a million years ago was mind blowing. They were already shaping what would become humanity with their ability to work together, the crafting of tools and their burial rituals. How often have our tribes come together and then be torn apart? Why are the clashes inevitable and seemingly endless? Why can't we just get along?

On the Camino we have met people from 28 countries. So far I have not witnessed one clash and that even includes the divergent walkers and bikers!

Life on the Camino is not suffering and sacrifice. I am reminded again and again of how much we have to be thankful for. The abundance of good food and wine is such that the cruise home will be an opportunity for me to cut back.

Li will be back tomorrow so for now . . . Buen Camino

Chuck

Due to the spacing of cities and the timing of our two day stay in Leon this weekend, we've chosen more reasonable days lengthwise, then will pick up the pace next Monday.

Today was the day I was waiting for, though I didn't know it. Prior to walking the Camino, I found interesting related photos online that I used as subjects for drawing and painting. There were a couple that I really wanted to see in person, but lacked information as to the location. Like the end of a treasure hunt, I found one today. The Bodegas of Moratinos look like a series of hobbit houses built into the hillside.

These date back 500 years and were used for winemaking, food storage and a way to keep children warm and occupied during the winter months. Instead of being instructed to go out and play, the kids were told to dig a big hole in the clay hill, which would eventually become the family's bodega.

If you look closely you'll see modern additions such as antennae and updated chimneys. My guess is these now serve as man caves.

We had our picture taken as we left the state of Palencia. I'm holding a little bouquet C made for me. It was his way of passing the time on the Meseta and a good use for duct tape. Sweet man.

Tonight we checked in to our room in a casa rurale in the town of Sahagun. We were surprised to learn that we would be the only people in this three bedroom, two bath apartment of at least 1600 square feet. I could happily live in it for retirement. Lest this Camino turn into a Glamino* the jacuzzi tub was not in working order.

We used this opportunity to do a badly needed load of laundry and for a shot at cooking our own dinner. Success!

*Glamino – a Camino experience organized by businesses that transport Pilgrims from section to section, including 3-4 star hotel accommodation and gourmet picnic lunches on the Way. A reminder: everyone has their own Camino.

I should give some credit here. I'm not able to post to the blog due to Apple issues, without the help of my daughter in Edmonton, who is currently on maternity leave. Thank you Elina.

Today we experienced some Camino synchronicity family-wise. My mother-in-law's name was Naomi. Starting this morning we started noticing rocks and signs signed by someone with the same name. It was like C's mom was there in spirit. Then others appeared.

Toward the end of today's trek there was my sister's name spelled out in rocks.

We arrived at Alburgue la Morena, established in honour of the owner's grandmother, who bore a coincidental resemblance to my mother. This is a caricature, but there is a portrait that's even closer:

This old hacienda has a nice feel, each room named for a family member.

The cost was 15e per person with shared bath and another wonderful meal for 10e each. Another example of locals catering to pilgrims.

This is the dreaded Meseta day that everyone talks about. The first 17k has nothing in the way of food or services. There seemed to be a trail of gross toilet paper behind every occasional clump of trees. It wasn't the barren Meseta that we expected, but miles of farmland along a very straight and flat dirt road.

We saw this family strolling along and had the opportunity to meet them later. Mom and dad, from Poland, are walking with their nine month old son.

Chuck thought they were crazy until we had a chance to talk with them. Everyone has their own Camino.

Last night we met two German cyclists in their 70's. The one who spoke English approached Chuck and complimented him on his beard, which he hasn't trimmed since retiring on June 1. The man has dubbed him Hemmingway, who spent lots of time in towns on the Camino. He's got something there.

Tomorrow I'll post part 2, but for now here is our beautiful Meseta sunset:

A day of superlatives, we woke up from the best night's sleep on the Camino and walked for a beautiful day mostly on an alternative path that took us through farm country then along a river with birdsong in one ear and church bells in the other. This is the Meseta that is described as so bland?

We walked along a river on a path that looked like scenes from a watercolour landscape instruction book.

Autumn Crocus were poking through the hard earth.

Arrived at our hostel at Carrion de Los Condes for the most unique room of our trek.

Aside from the quirky decorating, the place was fabulous. The dining room offered the best peregrino meal ever. Ordering lamb stew, I expected watery broth with tender but fatty chunks of meat. Instead I was presented with lamb shank in mushroom sauce. I was afraid to accept it thinking there had been a mistake.

For dessert we were given several choices and we ordered the chocolate mousse. The server told us NO! in firm Spanish. She presented us with two specialities de la casa, knowing the mousse was prepackaged, and ordered us to share both. They were a rice pudding and a custard with cinnamon that tasted like they were from my grandmother's kitchen.

The entire dinner with a decent bottle of wine came to 22e for the two of us. This family run hostel made it a point to spoil pilgrims.

Tomorrow is a long stretch with no services for the first 17k. Hasta manana.

About two thirds into our Meseta section for the day we stopped into an oasis of an alburgue in the afternoon to kill some pain.

The last section was along the Canal de Castilla, 129 miles long, built in the 1800's for grain transport, but with the advent of rail lines, is now used for irrigation.

We saw animals for the first time in days and played Mari's cow game with sheep. Hey Sheep! Looks like two turned to look at us. Maybe I should have called to them in Spanish.

We arrived in Fromista and found our hostel with extremely comfy beds and called it an early night.