We spent last night in a hostel in the village of Isar, a few kilometres off the trail, as Hornillos was totally booked. The hostel arranged for pick up and drop off to the Camino at no charge. I'm finding while walking I'm afflicted with musical ear worms. Waiting for our ride, a Scottsman shared…

We agree that if feels like we're getting stronger. Today's 21k (13 miles) felt like a normal day, the beautiful weather helping. Breakfast in Burgos was at Cafe Mayor where a slice of Spanish tortilla (similar to frittata, but flipped in the pan rather than baked), a piece of baguette and an espresso cost 2e.…

I mentioned we stayed in a boutique hostel. C was entertained by the bathroom's square toilet, complete with square hole, and the shower with six sprays. I know what we went through trying to find a replacement seat for a grey toilet, I can only imagine when it comes time to replace square toilet seats.…

This time it was a planned day of "rest," not weather induced. I put the word rest in quotes as we spent most of the day on our feet. We started with mass at the Cathedral de Santa Maria, a UNESCO world heritage site. It was supposed to be a mass cantada (with singing), instead…

During a break in the storm yesterday we hiked over to the Atapuerca Museum where, in the high winds, I gave my best Homo Antecessor impression: The weather broke last night leaving us with a good example of post storm clouds. Today was a replay of windy hiking, heavily clouded over with thankfully only a…

The storm continues at full force and we are glad to have cabbed to our next stop at Atapuerca, home to the prehistoric caves where the earliest human remains ever were discovered in Europe and dated back to over 900,000 years. If the storm lifts we hope to get to the Unesco site. As we…

Two weeks on the Camino, if this had been one of the first I'd have had serious questions about the rest. But we are encouraged because we already know not every day is like this. Back to last night at the truck stop. The name El Choclatero is related to a Spanish song, not that…

The pain of pilgrimage presented itself in the form of strong, cool headwinds, taking us five hours to walk 11 miles (18k). The clouds hung low: We had a brief stop in Santo Domingo to stop in at a beautiful, more simple church than what we've been seeing: Had our first try of pulpo, slices…

Four hours of hiking with two steep segments on each end. The only issue was taking no break, trying to outwalk a threatening looking rain storm. C checked out a crop of some sort of root vegetables and met a spider guarding the crops from marauding peregrinos (pilgrims). Walked through a ghost town of new…

Long day, long post. We passed the ruins of a Pilgrim Alburgue and hospital built in 1185. That gives you a feel for the numbers who have made the pilgrimage over the centuries. The primary affliction of those on the Camino has to do with feet. There are worse things. We have passed several memorials…