Life's a Stitch

Leaving Santiago by bus was the first step in letting go of our Camino pilgrimage. Soon we caught our first glimpse of the sea, the entrance to the end of the world, as believed by ancient mariners. It took Columbus, in 1492, to disprove that theory, but we know today that there were many prior to his voyage.

It was an unusual day of gusty wind, probably the remnants of a tropical storm from the east coast of the USA blown right across the Atlantic. The sound of a rescue helicopter and the hospitalero of our pension told us of the sad search in progress for a police officer, missing while fishing off the rocky outcrop near the lighthouse at mile zero of the Camino, giving credence to this area's name, the Coast of Death.

Finisterre is a place where you can eat seafood while the boat that caught it bobs in front of you moored in the tiny harbour. We tried the razor "smell" clams (see photo below), more meaty with fewer slimy stringy bits than the traditional kinds of steamers.

I'm wanting to try the percebes, goose barnacles a local delicacy, supposed to tasted like crab once you learn which parts to eat. C's not so keen after trying the "rosa" of a whole scallop yesterday. Really, though, can you imagine eating barnacles? How often can you say you've done that? Maybe it's because he read that the reproductive bits of the barnacle are tremendously out of proportion to their bodies, the largest of any creature, and they are not amongst the parts you discard prior to consumption. Best to leave that knowledge at the restaurant door.

It looks like we're the only ones here in a pension way up a hill in a room with a shower that has digital controls.

After the Camino, I think some people are hill intimidated. Although long, I didn't find this one bad at all.

We had hoped for the sea view rooms that were advertised, but ended up with a shrub, donkey, goat and chicken/rooster view room with a wee slice of water if you stand up to the side of the window and look through the far corner. It's different from home and not bad so we'll enjoy it.

That donkey and one particular chicken had a game going. He would chase the chicken until she squawked so loudly he would back off and she would run past him. And then they would do it again. And again. This was entertainment that would have been missed in an ocean view room.

Tomorrow we'll hike to the lighthouse where some pilgrims burn the clothes they've worn for many days of trekking.