22k of peaceful hiking, we found the solution to avoiding the crowds:
1. If you must stay in towns at the end of a stage in the popular Brierly guide, leave late. It seems most groups leave at 8:00 or 9:00a.m.
2. Even better, stay at a town located at the midpoint between the beginning and end of a particular stage.
The second strategy worked like a charm today. We left at 8:30 and had the trail mostly to ourselves. We walked through eucalyptus trees and found a giant shell marking our way.
We happened upon a large group praying together. As we approached they parted, allowing us through. We agreed that we could feel their positive Camino energy as we walked through their prayer tunnel. We'll take whatever help we can get.
Arriving at Melide, another Camino surprise. We booked into what we heard was a four bedroom house with a shared bathroom. Sometimes 35e will get you a damp room with lots of flies, today we found this treasure with a pool. OK, it wasn't swimmable, but far better than an ice pack on the foot.
Melide is famous for its pulpo (octopus). Joining our friends (Denise from West Van, her brother Greg from Australia and Pat from Colorado), we gave it a try.
It was good, a little fattier than I expected, but truthfully I'd rather have calamari.
The 50k marker awaits us in the morning.






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